tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5364228969859523352024-03-13T03:41:01.038-07:00Featherwind / Nutmeg BuildThis blog is for anyone who is building or thinking about building Dave Carnell's $200 dollar sailboat also known as Featherwind or Nutmeg. As I was thinking about building this boat, I found it very helpful that some people had posted their builds and so I'm sharing mine as well. Besides, now I can tell everyone I have a blog. :)Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.comBlogger25125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536422896985952335.post-34624343001409886152012-05-05T17:06:00.009-07:002012-05-05T18:40:26.137-07:00FloatationHere's a shot of the boat with the sail sitting in the lazy jacks. Floatation has been added to the boat in the hopes of making the boat recoverable should a knock down occur.<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vvfiHwRpnAg/T6XCCA7tvVI/AAAAAAAAATM/BK9IKBsy2MQ/s1600/Boat%2B4_27_12%2B001.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 333px; height: 450px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vvfiHwRpnAg/T6XCCA7tvVI/AAAAAAAAATM/BK9IKBsy2MQ/s320/Boat%2B4_27_12%2B001.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5739206640019553618" border="0" /></a><br /><br />View of the interior. The blue cushions on either side of the boat are of nylon rip stop material covering 4 inch wide styrofoam. If I was crossing the ocean I'd probably provide different floatation but for a beach toy I think this is fine, relatively easy, and cheap.<br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Yo0ltAaXsQY/T6XCCY5GxiI/AAAAAAAAATY/Bn9gE3CFmQ0/s1600/Boat%2B4_27_12%2B002.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 338px; height: 253px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Yo0ltAaXsQY/T6XCCY5GxiI/AAAAAAAAATY/Bn9gE3CFmQ0/s320/Boat%2B4_27_12%2B002.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5739206646451062306" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here's a closer view of the interior. Inside the cushion is a 1/2 inch strip of wood attached to the upper edge of the styrofoam. The white PVC "clamps" snap in place over the wood strip which is inside the blue cover. The clamps hold the top edge of the cushions in place snugly up against the inside of the hull. The bamboo floor holds the bottom edge of the cushions in place snugly up against the side of the hull.<br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wWY5E_L7sHE/T6XCC8fZ8jI/AAAAAAAAATk/05xzc1gq0Dw/s1600/Boat%2B4_27_12%2B003.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 343px; height: 257px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wWY5E_L7sHE/T6XCC8fZ8jI/AAAAAAAAATk/05xzc1gq0Dw/s320/Boat%2B4_27_12%2B003.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5739206656006943282" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a closer view of the PVC clamps. I took a large diameter of PVC pipe and cut it into 1.5 inch wide circles. One can soften PVC enough to bend and shape it by putting it in boiling water. The clamps seem to be pretty sturdy. I pushed and pried a whole bunch on the cushions and could not break the clamps or cause them to work loose.<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bCTgKcdesfc/T6XCDG253UI/AAAAAAAAATw/WPrBJxM3JQA/s1600/Boat%2B4_27_12%2B004.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 345px; height: 258px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bCTgKcdesfc/T6XCDG253UI/AAAAAAAAATw/WPrBJxM3JQA/s320/Boat%2B4_27_12%2B004.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5739206658789858626" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sWVYFTYCHj0/T6XPKAkmeqI/AAAAAAAAAVY/0KKkTTyXVpQ/s1600/Boat%2B4_27_12%2B005.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 347px; height: 261px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sWVYFTYCHj0/T6XPKAkmeqI/AAAAAAAAAVY/0KKkTTyXVpQ/s320/Boat%2B4_27_12%2B005.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5739221071012723362" border="0" /></a><br /><br />So lets test it. Here's a view of the boat floating on it's side in about 2 feet of water. The boat is floating relatively high in the water due to the cushions. No part of the boat, sail, or mast is touching the bottom. The boat, when righted from this floating high position contains some water but is manageable.<br /><br />Without flotation the boat would float half in and half out of the water when on it's side. When righted from the half in and half out position the boat would contain a lot of water and be hard to manage. So I'm basically happy with the floatation for now.<br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rGCzMSoJrkM/T6XCDjQSt5I/AAAAAAAAAT4/RZfwuknmz_8/s1600/Boat%2B4_27_12%2B015.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 357px; height: 267px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rGCzMSoJrkM/T6XCDjQSt5I/AAAAAAAAAT4/RZfwuknmz_8/s320/Boat%2B4_27_12%2B015.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5739206666412537746" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Close up of the submerged cushion. The cushion's clamped edge is submerged a few inches under the water by the weight of the boat. Only the upper cushion edge with the clamps is submerged. The cushion edge near the floor is not submerged. The weight of the sail pulls press the mast downward and angles the boat so the rail is submerged.<br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EHMdTu2Zcuk/T6XQhPLumQI/AAAAAAAAAVk/8U6SnbjVAO0/s1600/Boat%2B4_27_12%2B018.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 340px; height: 254px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EHMdTu2Zcuk/T6XQhPLumQI/AAAAAAAAAVk/8U6SnbjVAO0/s320/Boat%2B4_27_12%2B018.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5739222569583548674" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Back home the cushions and floors are removed and everything gets to dry out. This is Florida and mold would quickly form without a dry out. Hope you enjoyed that. Till next time.<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iSqwdf64lnI/T6XPJ2Z268I/AAAAAAAAAVM/H8uis5oqNVY/s1600/ebay%2B5%2B1%2B12%2B003.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iSqwdf64lnI/T6XPJ2Z268I/AAAAAAAAAVM/H8uis5oqNVY/s320/ebay%2B5%2B1%2B12%2B003.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5739221068283308994" border="0" /></a>Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536422896985952335.post-9153806031126676332012-05-04T19:59:00.002-07:002012-05-04T20:52:06.201-07:00New Sail and MastWell I got busy with work and worked out of state and didn't touch the boat for a long time. Nice to be back and nice to have done some work on the boat and to update the blog. Since the junk rig sail didn't work out quite right, I made another poly tarp sail per the plan's dimensions. As recommended the sail is a lanteen sail. Below is the picture of the unfinished sail. The sail has been cut out of the tarp. The sail edges have been folded over and rope has been sewn into the perimeter of the sail.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OMwNIgok5mU/T6STWgILLrI/AAAAAAAAASI/_eQ_ZKDRXS8/s1600/Lanteen+Sail+on+ground+no+corners+002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OMwNIgok5mU/T6STWgILLrI/AAAAAAAAASI/_eQ_ZKDRXS8/s320/Lanteen+Sail+on+ground+no+corners+002.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Below is a close up of the sail corner where you can better see the folded sail edge with the rope sewn in. There is also a dart in the corner. Two of the corners have darts which allow the sail to have a concave shape.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BPKaxahDx44/T6SWDyAqtCI/AAAAAAAAASU/aJ8mrYqwgs4/s1600/Lanteen+Sail+corner+close+up+no+tape.jPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BPKaxahDx44/T6SWDyAqtCI/AAAAAAAAASU/aJ8mrYqwgs4/s320/Lanteen+Sail+corner+close+up+no+tape.jPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Below is a view of the finished corners and dart. The corners and dart are reinforce with polytarp and tape which are also sewn onto the sail. Putting in the gromets was fun. I hadn't ever messed with gromets before. Oh, and I should mention it was my mother who kindly sewed the sail for me. The corners and sail seem surprisingly sturdy.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G0LDwk5DgOo/T6SXMSoXYnI/AAAAAAAAASc/ay7sTlO-saE/s1600/Lanteen+Sail+two+corners+with+tape+close.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G0LDwk5DgOo/T6SXMSoXYnI/AAAAAAAAASc/ay7sTlO-saE/s320/Lanteen+Sail+two+corners+with+tape+close.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Since it's a lanteen sail I also needed spars. Luckily I was able to get some nice lengths of bamboo at no cost to use for the spars. How does it get better than that? The lengths of bamboo are a little bit too bendable so I doubled them up and lashed them together with zip ties. Yeah, I know, could have used duct tape. Below is a veiw of the sail corner and bamboo spars. The spars are attached to each other in the corner by a peice of rope secured to the spars with hose clamps. I read that bamboo will splinter and break if you drill holes in it and bolt it together. I used pieces of rubber inner tube beneath the clamps to prevent them from sliding around. This seems to be working well. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AbbAFRPzbv4/T6SZOFIvfDI/AAAAAAAAASk/tcsp__AItOw/s1600/Boat+4_27_12+010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AbbAFRPzbv4/T6SZOFIvfDI/AAAAAAAAASk/tcsp__AItOw/s320/Boat+4_27_12+010.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
View of the spars and mast. The mast is a larger piece of bamboo that is approx 11 feet long also obtained at no cost. The plans call for a 10 foot mast. Now that I know that 10 feet is actually enough length for the mast, I will probably trim the extra foot. The sail is hoisted up the mast by a rope through a pully that I've tied to the mast. The bottom spare attaches to the mast with rope and hose clamps. The sails are attached to the spars with zip ties, yea zip ties. I like the bamboo. Gives it a homey look.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FqtgMRu1geU/T6SbKr4TmbI/AAAAAAAAASs/8sayyrPFY7o/s1600/Boat+4_27_12+008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FqtgMRu1geU/T6SbKr4TmbI/AAAAAAAAASs/8sayyrPFY7o/s320/Boat+4_27_12+008.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AcMOYULz_uE/T6SbjJhJxZI/AAAAAAAAAS0/irwzK5sAuXc/s1600/Boat+4_27_12+009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AcMOYULz_uE/T6SbjJhJxZI/AAAAAAAAAS0/irwzK5sAuXc/s320/Boat+4_27_12+009.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
And below is a veiw of the whole thing. I took the boat out for a spin in winds of 10 knots and had a good time. The boat moves and steers well in light air. No problems with the new rig. I like it. Will be interesting to see what it's like with more wind sometime. If you noticed the absense of the dragon, don't worry, he's fine and will be along another time :) <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2H7m9J_G80k/T6SddbvKaTI/AAAAAAAAAS8/F02gHKic_J8/s1600/Boat+4_27_12+011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2H7m9J_G80k/T6SddbvKaTI/AAAAAAAAAS8/F02gHKic_J8/s640/Boat+4_27_12+011.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536422896985952335.post-17628526204362867452010-08-16T07:39:00.000-07:002010-08-16T13:58:34.069-07:00Launch Day! Woohoo!<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TGlcLTQwx0I/AAAAAAAAARY/OJ6OuZOIRvM/s1600/100_9072.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 207px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 165px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506033368656037698" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TGlcLTQwx0I/AAAAAAAAARY/OJ6OuZOIRvM/s320/100_9072.jpg" /></a> Here we are at Sunset Park the local beach/boat ramp with the boat on the trailer. The mast is on top of the van and all other equipment is in the van. I started building the boat a little over a year ago but was out of state working for seven to eight months, so figure a net total of maybe six months build time.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TGlffmvgTjI/AAAAAAAAARw/7J1zb8ArxEU/s1600/100_9074.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 204px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 147px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506037016017522226" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TGlffmvgTjI/AAAAAAAAARw/7J1zb8ArxEU/s320/100_9074.jpg" /></a>To first step is to remove the boat from the trailer. I slide the boat half way off the trailer and set one side of the boat down on the ground on top of a heavy mover's quilt. Next time I'm going to set it on the floatation cushions and leave the quilt at home so there's one less thing to bring. The photo shows one side of the boat on the trailer and the other on the ground. From this position it's easy to roll the boat over to the upright position.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TGlcMEGH90I/AAAAAAAAARo/xKDLB-JfidM/s1600/100_9077.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 192px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506033381764757314" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TGlcMEGH90I/AAAAAAAAARo/xKDLB-JfidM/s320/100_9077.jpg" /></a>This photo shows the boat rolled over to the upright position with the wheels slid under the bow. From here I lift the boat up at the aft end and roll it to the waters edge. I prefer this method of getting the boat to the water over backing a trailer into the water and find it relatively easy to do although I wouldn't want to do it with a heavier boat. The sail in the back ground is a from a Sunfish sailboat.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TGlRSIoogfI/AAAAAAAAAQY/Ws5rpq8389w/s1600/Launch+013.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 196px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 178px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506021391434547698" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TGlRSIoogfI/AAAAAAAAAQY/Ws5rpq8389w/s320/Launch+013.JPG" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TGlRSIoogfI/AAAAAAAAAQY/Ws5rpq8389w/s1600/Launch+013.JPG"></a> It hits the water for the first time. Wow it Floats! Only a few inches draft, pretty cool. Since it doesn't leak I decided to move along and get it rigged it for the first sail.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TGlV7PByLXI/AAAAAAAAARI/o2YD4uQj2kg/s1600/Launch+017.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 195px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 227px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506026495571799410" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TGlV7PByLXI/AAAAAAAAARI/o2YD4uQj2kg/s320/Launch+017.JPG" /></a>It took me an hour to remember how to put the thing together and to fuss with every detail. Ugh, untangled ropes, experimented with various control lines, and put the mast up and down a three times because I forgot something, doh. Got the rudder mounted, mast up, lazy jacks attached, lee board attach, sail up, and the mainsheet figured out. Boat is about rigged, including the dragonhead on the bow. :)<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TGlRSW8l0PI/AAAAAAAAAQg/sGxddgBfqgg/s1600/Launch+014.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 193px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 176px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506021395276353778" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TGlRSW8l0PI/AAAAAAAAAQg/sGxddgBfqgg/s320/Launch+014.JPG" /></a> Here's a close up photo of the dragon head mounted on the bow. Are you crunchy? Do you taste good with catsup? Beware of the Dragon!<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TGlUg5MnV9I/AAAAAAAAARA/g3m5BLIDeRY/s1600/Launch+019+cropped.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 193px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 208px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506024943523420114" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TGlUg5MnV9I/AAAAAAAAARA/g3m5BLIDeRY/s320/Launch+019+cropped.jpg" /></a> So my ma and girlfriend piled into the boat with me and we took her out for a spin and had a nice little ride. A Sunfish tagged along to keep an eye on us in case of a problem. Nice of him, he did that on his own initiative. With three of us in the boat it handled fine, moved well, and seemed to point well enough. Coming about seemed slow but it may be that I need to get more familiar with the nuances of this boat. Overall, the boat seemed good and it was great to get it out on the water. This photo shows me sailing solo.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TGlRSxb2-8I/AAAAAAAAAQw/fPsqH3vMK3U/s1600/Launch+025.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 195px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 261px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506021402386824130" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TGlRSxb2-8I/AAAAAAAAAQw/fPsqH3vMK3U/s320/Launch+025.JPG" /></a> When I sailed the boat solo I found out that my weight alone is not quite enough to balance the sail/mast weight. Yes, that means I dumped it twice. :) Luckily the water was shallow enough for me to walk it back to shore and bail it out. With three people aboard there was no problem keeping it upright. I have a few options... Lighten the junk rig mast/sail, add amas so it's trimaran, and or try out the lighter lanteen mast/sail that is suggested in the plans. What might be cool is to build removeable amas so I could sail it as a trimaran or a mono hull and use either the lanteen or junk rig sail/mast. I could sail the boat in a couple different configurations. We'll see, thinking about it for now. The very next thing is to try to add floatation in such a way as to make the boat recoverable from a knock down.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TGlRSvHwGkI/AAAAAAAAAQo/R737xRp6lL8/s1600/Launch+019.JPG"></a>Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536422896985952335.post-23650057743332113882010-07-26T18:23:00.001-07:002010-08-15T10:16:23.280-07:00Chinese Junk Rig Sail<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TE5IMyba9QI/AAAAAAAAAPo/q2wc4dvTM04/s1600/sail+cut+out+full+view.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; WIDTH: 196px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 262px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5498411579598370050" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TE5IMyba9QI/AAAAAAAAAPo/q2wc4dvTM04/s320/sail+cut+out+full+view.jpg" /></a>The plans for Featherwind allow for a Sunfish sail and also include a sail plan for a lanteen sail of different dimensions than the Sunfish sail. The Chinese junk rig sail is what really grabbed me though so I'm going to give it a try. I'm building my sail from plans for a 78 square foot junk rig sail found on Duckworks magazine website which is about the same square footage as the Sunfish sail. Since the junk rig sail is easily reefed, I added an extra panel at the bottom of the sail for a total sail area of 94 square feet so when the wind is very light I'll have some "extra" sail I can hoist. The photo shows the 16X10 or so white poly tarp that I cut my sail out of. In this photo the sail has been cut out and is surrounded by the left over tarp.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TE41cpaWYSI/AAAAAAAAAOY/kxJ4IyjI0OM/s1600/sail+cut+out+3.jpg.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; WIDTH: 194px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 167px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5498390961334935842" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TE41cpaWYSI/AAAAAAAAAOY/kxJ4IyjI0OM/s320/sail+cut+out+3.jpg.jpg" /></a>The sail plan calls for a dart to be sewn into the luff and leech for each batten. The luff is the side of the sail that is attached to the mast and the leech is the side of the sail opposite of the luff . The darts will give each panel, (the sail area between the battens), a concave shape and this is desirable as it improves performance over that of a flat sail. The final photo below shows a view of panels and battens. This photo attempts to show the darts drawn on the sail.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TFi7jQrLJKI/AAAAAAAAAQI/MVoB2pHhvJM/s1600/0530101608.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 195px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 170px" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5501353159278929058" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TFi7jQrLJKI/AAAAAAAAAQI/MVoB2pHhvJM/s320/0530101608.jpg" /></a>This photo is a close up of a couple of darts drawn on the sail. The horizontal line marks where the gurney flap will be located. The gurney flap is part of the sail that extends past the battens on the leech of the sail. It's five inches wide and tapers off to zero towards the upper part of the sail. The gurney flap is said to improve windward performance of the junk rig sail.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TFjAGxtBa9I/AAAAAAAAAQQ/RqPVU-0ASLY/s1600/sail+with+pac+cloth+no+battens.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 190px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 164px" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5501358167486983122" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TFjAGxtBa9I/AAAAAAAAAQQ/RqPVU-0ASLY/s320/sail+with+pac+cloth+no+battens.jpg" /></a>Once the sail is cut out and the darts are sewn in, one needs to sew nylon pac cloth to the leech and luff. Six hundred denier nylon pac cloth is a tough sturdy material and is what I used. I have to say thanks to my ma for doing the sewing for me on her sewing machine. The sail needs to have the pac cloth sewn to the leech and luff because when you hoist the sail the poly tarp alone wouldn't be able to take the stress from the weight of the battens. This photo shows pac cloth sewn onto the poly tarp. In the foreground is the top of the sail. On the right is the leech with pac cloth and on the left is the luff with pac cloth. The sail seems very sail like even though it's polytarp.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TE5Ggo9ii8I/AAAAAAAAAPY/9ZmnEazF7BA/s1600/D+ring+close+up.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; WIDTH: 192px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 148px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5498409721631247298" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TE5Ggo9ii8I/AAAAAAAAAPY/9ZmnEazF7BA/s320/D+ring+close+up.jpg" /></a> This photo shows a close up of a d ring. The D ring shown in the photo is sewn to the gurney flap in line with a batten. There is a D ring for each of the five lowest battens and a rope is attached to each D ring so the sail can be can be trimmed to different points of sail.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TE41b5d6Y9I/AAAAAAAAAOA/pTwDe5E25mg/s1600/Cut+batton+and+yard+for+sail.jPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; WIDTH: 196px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 144px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5498390948464976850" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TE41b5d6Y9I/AAAAAAAAAOA/pTwDe5E25mg/s320/Cut+batton+and+yard+for+sail.jPG" /></a> Now I have a sail with darts, pac cloth sewn on the luff and leech, and D rings attached to the gurney flap. Now I have to add the battens to the sail. The battens are attached to the sail in pairs by screwing the battens together with the sail sandwiched in between. This photo shows the wood pieces for the battens and yard right after I cut them from a larger piece of wood. I painted them the same chocolate color as the mast.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TE46fHYy18I/AAAAAAAAAPA/mV67KAFP76g/s1600/Raised+sail.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; WIDTH: 194px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 266px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5498396501299353538" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TE46fHYy18I/AAAAAAAAAPA/mV67KAFP76g/s320/Raised+sail.jpg" /></a>Finally I get to raise the sail and have a look.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TE41mRjikoI/AAAAAAAAAOo/Ge1qVuOTcAk/s1600/sail+cut+out+5.jpg.jpg"></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TE41dC_NTvI/AAAAAAAAAOg/Dpkl8VW519s/s1600/sail+cut+out+4.jpg.jpg"></a>Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536422896985952335.post-6276284088338639662010-07-26T08:44:00.000-07:002010-07-26T12:46:34.065-07:00Bamboo Floor<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TE2uXYif_ZI/AAAAAAAAANA/FLf_TIf1y_I/s1600/Laying+out+the+bamboo+floor.jpg.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 196px; height: 148px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TE2uXYif_ZI/AAAAAAAAANA/FLf_TIf1y_I/s320/Laying+out+the+bamboo+floor.jpg.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5498242436836621714" border="0" /></a>The plans for Featherwind do not include building seats or a floor as it is a very simple light weight boat. I'm good with sitting on the floor and I like the space that is left available by not putting seats in. But I do remember sitting on the floor of a canoe and not liking it very much when some water would come aboard. So I decided to attempt to add a floor to this boat. The simplest light weight solution I could come up with is a bamboo floor. I think that the bamboo also adds to the Chinese junk theme I'm doing and I like the appearance of it. The floor is removable for cleaning or if it turns out I don't like this floor after all. This photo shows a view of the bamboo pieces laid out in the hull on top of the frames to get an idea of how it's going to look.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TE2y8k95ieI/AAAAAAAAANw/OHtOT4F7bXk/s1600/ledge+added+t+rear+frame.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 195px; height: 147px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TE2y8k95ieI/AAAAAAAAANw/OHtOT4F7bXk/s320/ledge+added+t+rear+frame.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5498247473874438626" border="0" /></a>The bamboo comes from a roll of bamboo fencing purchased at a national chain store. This was the cheapest bamboo I could find and it comes in a four foot length which is just about perfect. My idea is to have the ends of the bamboo sit on top of the three frame pieces. This gets my butt off the hull bottom by a couple of inches and should keep me dry when a little water splashes in as the water will be below the bamboo. The diameter of the bamboo varies from piece to piece but is an inch or more in diameter. It's pretty strong and doesn't bend very much. The floor is in two sections, a front floor and a back floor. The bamboo's four foot length works perfect for the front floor but is just a tad shy in length for the back floor. I added a piece of wood or a ledge to the back frame to solve this. This photo is of that ledge on the back frame. I attached it with epoxy because I didn't want to drill holes in the frame to attach it with screws. It did support my weight, so far so good.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TE21W1OXuEI/AAAAAAAAAN4/XONHSRjNOE4/s1600/both+ledges+added+to+mid+frame+2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 190px; height: 141px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TE21W1OXuEI/AAAAAAAAAN4/XONHSRjNOE4/s320/both+ledges+added+to+mid+frame+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5498250123938347074" border="0" /></a>I also had to add two small ledges on the port and starboard side of the mid frame where the gussets are located as the gussets interfere with the bamboo resting on the frame. Hopefully the picture explains this better than the verbal. Here is a view of my two mini ledges. By adding the two pieces of wood I now have surface on both sides of the gussets for the bamboo to rest on.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TE2unir-1rI/AAAAAAAAANY/URpbt7Or684/s1600/floor+fits+around+mass.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 189px; height: 141px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TE2unir-1rI/AAAAAAAAANY/URpbt7Or684/s320/floor+fits+around+mass.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5498242714438653618" border="0" /></a>Here's photo of the completed front floor. Besides the four foot lengths of bamboo I also used cross pieces of bamboo to reinforce the floor. Doing this felt like it added a lot of strength and stiffness to the floor. It's all tied together with light weight rope like a raft. The front floor fits nicely around the mast base.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TE2uYC9DbhI/AAAAAAAAANQ/R2-oe-jZSSA/s1600/floor+from+the+rear+with+mas.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 190px; height: 141px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TE2uYC9DbhI/AAAAAAAAANQ/R2-oe-jZSSA/s320/floor+from+the+rear+with+mas.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5498242448222285330" border="0" /></a>Here's a photo of both floors completed. You may notice that the floors do not go all the way to the sides of the hull. I intend to add cushions to that space and decided running the bamboo all the way out to the sides is not needed. By the way, I don't actually plan to sit on the bamboo but instead on a flotation cushion or some other more comfortable arrangement.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TE2uXiGT2dI/AAAAAAAAANI/FTmU5Uk4LnQ/s1600/floor+tie+through+limber+holes.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 189px; height: 141px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TE2uXiGT2dI/AAAAAAAAANI/FTmU5Uk4LnQ/s320/floor+tie+through+limber+holes.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5498242439402740178" border="0" /></a>This photo shows how the bamboo floors are attached to the boat. They are tied to the hull with a piece of rope at each corner of the floor section. To remove the floor I would only need to untie the ropes that hold them in place. The rope goes through the limber hole in the frame and around the bamboo. No problems with this arrangement so far.Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536422896985952335.post-9771933518637627972010-07-21T03:24:00.000-07:002010-07-21T10:04:30.635-07:00Mast<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TEbOmfhXsgI/AAAAAAAAAMg/aQC77n_pVv8/s1600/mast+with+boom+taped+on.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; WIDTH: 211px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 158px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5496307555944083970" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TEbOmfhXsgI/AAAAAAAAAMg/aQC77n_pVv8/s320/mast+with+boom+taped+on.jpg" /></a>I was pondering what to do about a mast. I thought it would be cool to attempt to build a hollow birdsmouth mast. It also seemed like it might be a bit of a project to build one. While I was pondering this I searched on Craigslist and found a hollow wooden mast offered for free. I'm in the state of FL and the mast was located in IL. Fantastically enough my mother was visiting IL and was near the mast. I got my ma to pick up the mast and put it on the roof rack of her SUV and bring it back to FL when she returned from visiting. I figure with this kind of luck I should be able to win the lotto. So here's a pic of the mast packaged as it arrived with the boom and stay wires duct taped on.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TEbOXs45eLI/AAAAAAAAAMY/IbT8r1kvjqE/s1600/mast+sanded.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; WIDTH: 209px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 157px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5496307301834389682" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TEbOXs45eLI/AAAAAAAAAMY/IbT8r1kvjqE/s320/mast+sanded.jpg" /></a>The mast is about nineteen feet long and about four inches across at the base. I removed the sail track and stay wires that were attached to it and sanded it down. It had some old varnish on it which had mostly flaked off so getting down to bare wood wasn't much of a problem. The original Bolger plan for this boat shows a sloop rig with a mast about this long so I figure this mast could be fine for this boat. After I get my junk rig sail built I'll see if I can reduce the length of the mast.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TEbjb_qxlTI/AAAAAAAAAMo/jV6Guz0h2l4/s1600/painted+mast.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; WIDTH: 210px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 268px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5496330465339086130" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TEbjb_qxlTI/AAAAAAAAAMo/jV6Guz0h2l4/s320/painted+mast.JPG" /></a>Here's a pic of the painted mast. I went with a chocolate brown color which matches the color of the dragon head I'm going to mount to the bow. Going to use the same color on the yard and battens.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TEbOWlPpU-I/AAAAAAAAAL4/vqlaNjTuKZk/s1600/close+up+lock+and+key+mast+step.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; WIDTH: 207px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 227px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5496307282602447842" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TEbOWlPpU-I/AAAAAAAAAL4/vqlaNjTuKZk/s320/close+up+lock+and+key+mast+step.jpg" /></a>This pic shows two pieces of brass hardware that were also given to me with the mast. The brass piece attached to the mast base fits onto the brass mast step that is attached to the boat.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TEbOXMqjc8I/AAAAAAAAAMA/zEc_-1BIOVI/s1600/Mast+base+in+boat.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; WIDTH: 206px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 154px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5496307293184291778" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TEbOXMqjc8I/AAAAAAAAAMA/zEc_-1BIOVI/s320/Mast+base+in+boat.jpg" /></a>This pic shows the mast in place. Stepping the mast by myself, that is putting the mast into the boat, is no problem due to the light weight of the mast. I'm very happy that this mast is easy to handle.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TEbOXfc-qHI/AAAAAAAAAMI/avCfWnwW1YY/s1600/mast+in+boat+distant.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; WIDTH: 213px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 284px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5496307298227628146" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TEbOXfc-qHI/AAAAAAAAAMI/avCfWnwW1YY/s320/mast+in+boat+distant.jpg" /></a> I'm going to try to get away with out using stay wires on the mast. We'll see how it goes. Here's a pic from a distance of the boat with mast. Shiver me timbers!<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/TEbOXfc-qHI/AAAAAAAAAMI/avCfWnwW1YY/s1600/mast+in+boat+distant.jpg"><br /></a>Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536422896985952335.post-81231352510490998772010-04-22T04:33:00.000-07:002010-04-22T05:54:33.783-07:00Returned: My Darling Boat, I Missed YouAhhh finally back. It's good to see my boat again. I found that the boat had gotten specks of mold on it as things left outside in FL will often tend to do. The boat was covered with tarp during the seven months I was gone but that did not prevent the mold. I may move the boat to a slightly less humid location in the future to see if the that helps. The mold washed off easily with bleach and water.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/S9A6-EXIPII/AAAAAAAAALI/OySlFRHeDIo/s1600/runner+sap.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 199px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/S9A6-EXIPII/AAAAAAAAALI/OySlFRHeDIo/s200/runner+sap.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5462931185997462658" border="0" /></a>I also found a few problems with the paint on the outside surface of the hull. One problem as shown in this photo, was that the wood used for the center runner was green enough that in my absence sap had bubbled up through the paint. A more experienced wood worker would have probably known the wood was too green but not I.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/S9A7_UWrH7I/AAAAAAAAALQ/GFlJyKpb-qo/s1600/bare+wood+from+strap.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 149px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/S9A7_UWrH7I/AAAAAAAAALQ/GFlJyKpb-qo/s320/bare+wood+from+strap.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5462932306982018994" border="0" /></a>Another problem, as shown in this photo, was that some of the paint must have been put on too thick and did not dry fully. It seemed dry when we picked the boat up and put in on the trailer. The photo shows a bare spot of wood. This is from the strap used to secure the boat to the trailer. It looks like the paint wasn't cured and the strap was able to dig into the paint. So I inspected closely and found a few small problems in the paint on the outside of the hull and decided to give the hull a light sanding and another coat of paint.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/S9A9BbO3vzI/AAAAAAAAALY/zU9x3Kml_8Q/s1600/pirmed+runner.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 148px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/S9A9BbO3vzI/AAAAAAAAALY/zU9x3Kml_8Q/s320/pirmed+runner.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5462933442699706162" border="0" /></a>A photo of the runner in primer. The sap scraped and sanded off pretty easily. Not a bad job at all.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/S9A9QvAoGaI/AAAAAAAAALg/0fVctgimgEc/s1600/primed+spots+2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 149px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/S9A9QvAoGaI/AAAAAAAAALg/0fVctgimgEc/s320/primed+spots+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5462933705706707362" border="0" /></a>This photo shows a few spots in primer. I painted the hull with better paint from my favorite paint store and was careful not to coat too thickly. So the hull is now repainted and ready to go again. I'll have to keep an eye on the sap situation on the center runner. I hope it's all sapped out. Not a biggy if not though.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/S9A_jfnljcI/AAAAAAAAALo/c5W33jKxAAc/s1600/pcv+protection+2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 148px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/S9A_jfnljcI/AAAAAAAAALo/c5W33jKxAAc/s320/pcv+protection+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5462936227015921090" border="0" /></a>I added indoor outdoor carpet to the 2X4 bunks the boat actually contacts while resting on the trailer. This is too protect the paint on the boat from the abrasion that occurs when I slide the boat on and off the trailer. I also cooked up a piece of pvc pipe with a foam pipe insulation insert to further protect the boat and make sliding the boat off the trailer easier. Haven't tried it yet so lets call it experimental for now.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/S9BCXiWG7YI/AAAAAAAAALw/anNjMGXpMAQ/s1600/boat+wheels.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 198px; height: 147px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/S9BCXiWG7YI/AAAAAAAAALw/anNjMGXpMAQ/s320/boat+wheels.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5462939320124370306" border="0" /></a>I built my wheels that I'll use during launching. The plan is to put the wheels under the back half of the boat, lift the front of the boat and walk/wheel it into the water. The boat will float and I'll remove the wheels. The wood is a 4' long piece of pressure treated wood used for fencing. It was on sale for only two bucks for an 8' length. Good deal. The wheels were just laying around having been removed from some long forgotten lawn mower. The axles are 10 inch lag bolts. The bolts are tightly inserted into holes I drilled in the ends of the lumber. Added the indoor outdoor to the wheel thing to protect the paint on the boat. The 2x2 end blocks also covered with indoor outdoor should keep the boat centered on the wheels. I tested this in the driveway and it seems ready for a wet run. Approaching that first launch. :)Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536422896985952335.post-46564082905370759592009-07-14T20:36:00.000-07:002009-07-14T21:12:45.481-07:00Boat On The Trailer<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/Sl1P7LxrbbI/AAAAAAAAAKw/kf4jaRjjCQg/s1600-h/front+boat+and+trailer.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 215px; height: 161px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/Sl1P7LxrbbI/AAAAAAAAAKw/kf4jaRjjCQg/s320/front+boat+and+trailer.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5358527009832791474" border="0" /></a> I already had this old 4'X8' utility trailer and decided it could be my boat trailer. I built a wood rack out of 2"X4"s to set the boat on. Boat designer and author Jim Michalak mentions that he wonders why more home builders don't trailer the boat upside down as it would mean less hull distortion and stress. I like it upside down because if the tarp blows off during a storm the boat won't fill up with water.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/Sl1PsGMFfiI/AAAAAAAAAKo/9svln2IpOEo/s1600-h/front+side+boat+and+trailer+2.jPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 214px; height: 160px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/Sl1PsGMFfiI/AAAAAAAAAKo/9svln2IpOEo/s320/front+side+boat+and+trailer+2.jPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5358526750634901026" border="0" /></a>Launching... I will slide the boat off the trailer from the side, flip it over, set it on wheels, and roll it to the shore like a beach cat or kayak. They say this boat is car toppable but I think I prefer the trailer method. Many of the launch sites around here are very shallow and a boat on wheels launch will work nicely. This trailer wasn't getting enough use anyway. :)<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/Sl1PYbJc0LI/AAAAAAAAAKg/_rDwtrvVbcE/s1600-h/rear+side+boat+and+trailer.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 213px; height: 158px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/Sl1PYbJc0LI/AAAAAAAAAKg/_rDwtrvVbcE/s320/rear+side+boat+and+trailer.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5358526412663607474" border="0" /></a>Here you can see that much of the boat is on the rear of the trailer. It does balance too light on the trailer tongue but some weight on the front of the trailer takes care of it. I'm only going short distances but once the bugs are worked out I know the trailer is good to go long distances if desired. This trailer has seen a couple thousand highway miles for sure. I like that I've got some room under the boat for storage.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/Sl1PCucT4kI/AAAAAAAAAKY/b9zgfBwjUEk/s1600-h/tarpped.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 214px; height: 159px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/Sl1PCucT4kI/AAAAAAAAAKY/b9zgfBwjUEk/s320/tarpped.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5358526039885865538" border="0" /></a>Here's a pic of the boat with my brand new 10X20 tarp. Covers pretty well. The boat is gonna be sitting for a while. I'm going out of state for work and could be gone for up to five months. The sail and mast will most likely have to wait till I get back. But I'm happy to have gotten this far and like what I have so far.Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536422896985952335.post-39492760804105333132009-06-17T21:32:00.000-07:002009-06-17T22:09:36.515-07:00Priming and Painting<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SjnHY0Xx1fI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/-HB4tokDdek/s1600-h/Boat+Primer+2.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 230px; height: 172px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SjnHY0Xx1fI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/-HB4tokDdek/s320/Boat+Primer+2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5348525261668341234" border="0" /></a>Well not much to say. Primed and painted the boat. Here's a shot showing the boat in primer. I put two coats on. It seemed a little thin even though it was good primer/sealer.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SjnER0n_wjI/AAAAAAAAAJo/6v8DfCLh79U/s1600-h/Blue+boat+2.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 233px; height: 175px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SjnER0n_wjI/AAAAAAAAAJo/6v8DfCLh79U/s320/Blue+boat+2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5348521842942394930" border="0" /></a>Here's a shot showing the boat with three coats of exterior latex. The color is called windjammer. I don't know if it's me or what but I remember paint being thicker, thus the three coats.<br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SjnESNW5AOI/AAAAAAAAAJw/Rel634Ujt8k/s1600-h/Bottom+Primer.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 232px; height: 173px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SjnESNW5AOI/AAAAAAAAAJw/Rel634Ujt8k/s320/Bottom+Primer.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5348521849581535458" border="0" /></a>Next I turned it over and gave the bottom two coats of primer.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SjnESR7-n2I/AAAAAAAAAJ4/J4W307i8S-c/s1600-h/Bottom+in+blue.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 230px; height: 173px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SjnESR7-n2I/AAAAAAAAAJ4/J4W307i8S-c/s320/Bottom+in+blue.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5348521850810834786" border="0" /></a>Showing the bottom in blue.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SjnESoEP3eI/AAAAAAAAAKA/KUyx4YbcMGs/s1600-h/Parts+Drying.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 227px; height: 171px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SjnESoEP3eI/AAAAAAAAAKA/KUyx4YbcMGs/s320/Parts+Drying.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5348521856751099362" border="0" /></a>I hung up the leeboard, rudder parts, and tiller parts so I could paint all surfaces at the same time. I let them hang dry. Everything is one color for now. I may spice it up with another color later.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SjnESoEP3eI/AAAAAAAAAKA/KUyx4YbcMGs/s1600-h/Parts+Drying.JPG"><br /></a>Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536422896985952335.post-27384710160358573182009-06-07T09:46:00.000-07:002009-06-07T23:24:28.288-07:00Mast partner and stepArrh maties. I had to take a break from building for a while. I moved and had other stuff going on. What's a pirate's favorite restaurant? Arrrbees.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/Sivxri-rlbI/AAAAAAAAAJQ/oSkqkRBlVJI/s1600-h/Mast+partner+1.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 211px; height: 158px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/Sivxri-rlbI/AAAAAAAAAJQ/oSkqkRBlVJI/s320/Mast+partner+1.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344631113231603122" border="0" /></a>Here's the mast partner installed with the front brace. I'm going to omit the back brace for now as it's strong enough as it is and I want to think about how I want to use the space with regards to flotation and storage. The partner sits on two cleats attached to the hull sides. If you've got this far on the boat, the partner is easy imho.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SiyoTluYhVI/AAAAAAAAAJY/B5kYDcfH78s/s1600-h/Mast+step+2.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 216px; height: 161px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SiyoTluYhVI/AAAAAAAAAJY/B5kYDcfH78s/s320/Mast+step+2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344831912279573842" border="0" /></a>Here's the mast step installed below the partner. It's attached to the hull by epoxy and screws. I used 2 pieces of 1/2" ply glued together to make a single 1" inch thick piece 12"X6" in size. I'm using a thicker step because I'm going to attempt to build and use a Chinese junk sail rig which weighs more than the sunfish sail rig that is recommended for this boat. For now I'm not cutting the hole for the mast as I'm still figuring out the mast size. It shouldn't be a problem to do it later.Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536422896985952335.post-67019460428703976712009-04-23T19:12:00.001-07:002009-04-23T19:47:31.174-07:00Rudder and Tiller<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SfEgdkZ3ywI/AAAAAAAAAIo/J6mfJ95LR0s/s1600-h/rudder+right.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 211px; height: 158px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SfEgdkZ3ywI/AAAAAAAAAIo/J6mfJ95LR0s/s320/rudder+right.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5328075526516493058" border="0" /></a>Here's a pic of the rudder. Two pieces of half inch plywood with a bolt joining them together. This arrangement gives a pivot so the rudder can pivot up if it hits a submerged object or when you want to beach the boat. I used a door hinge to mount the rudder to the transom instead of the traditional gudgeons and pintles. I already had the hinge laying around and the idea of this boat is to be inexpensive to build so it seemed like a match to me. I'm into the idea of shabby sheik and don't mind adapting it to a sailboat :)<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SfEgdV93u6I/AAAAAAAAAIg/1Po-kF6miFY/s1600-h/rudder+left.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 211px; height: 158px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SfEgdV93u6I/AAAAAAAAAIg/1Po-kF6miFY/s320/rudder+left.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5328075522640952226" border="0" /></a>Here's a view of the other side of the rudder. The hinge is mounted on top of a .5" thick piece of plywood which acts as a spacer and allows the rudder to swing fully in both directions with out binding on the transom. On the inside of the transom I have a large backing plate of .5" plywood to better support the hinge and rudder. I took out the hinge's pin and replaced it with a quarter inch galvanized bolt. The idea being that I can quickly remove the bolt and remove the rudder for trailering. I still need to shape and trim the rudder and will post a pic of that latter.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SfEgdxoxITI/AAAAAAAAAIw/wfOgEH3lfKw/s1600-h/tiller+and+ext.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 204px; height: 153px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SfEgdxoxITI/AAAAAAAAAIw/wfOgEH3lfKw/s320/tiller+and+ext.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5328075530068631858" border="0" /></a>Here you see my tiller and extension. It's 8 foot long which is longer than the plans call for. I had an 8 foot 1X3 so I just used the full length thinking I can shorten it latter if needed. I think I may like having a little extra reach forward. I haven't tried it yet but I think I might be able to reach the mast while still holding the tiller. Could be a good thing. We'll see.Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536422896985952335.post-75744885083702398832009-04-23T18:29:00.000-07:002009-04-23T19:11:46.036-07:00Leeboard<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SfEWahIDUwI/AAAAAAAAAIY/a9_7ERAJB24/s1600-h/leebrd+spacer+.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 212px; height: 158px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SfEWahIDUwI/AAAAAAAAAIY/a9_7ERAJB24/s320/leebrd+spacer+.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5328064478980559618" border="0" /></a>This is the leeboard spacer/mount that is attached to the outside of the hull. It's 4" by about 1.5" by .75". I wasn't quite sure what size the plans were giving me but decided the plans must be showing a full sized drawing which measured 4"X 1". I ended up with 1.5" cause the scrap I used was already that size and bigger is better :) When in the down or submerged position, the leeboard rests on the surface of the gunwale, spacer, and the chine. Having the spacer in between the wale and chine means that when you tighten the bolt the leeboard won't pull snug up against the side of the hull and prevents putting an unwanted bow in the leeboard. The spacer also gives friction to help hold the leeboard in position. So far that seems to work fine.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SfEWaX7qoiI/AAAAAAAAAIQ/OlQ1IFQ4ljo/s1600-h/leebrd+back+plate.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 215px; height: 161px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SfEWaX7qoiI/AAAAAAAAAIQ/OlQ1IFQ4ljo/s320/leebrd+back+plate.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5328064476512690722" border="0" /></a>This is a pic showing the backing plate inside the hull directly behind the leeboard spacer shown above. Dimensions are 4" X 4" X .5". The backing plate helps to reinforce the side of the hull which is only .25" thick.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SfEWaHiwNSI/AAAAAAAAAII/uAEJtX-2REY/s1600-h/leebrd+mounted.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 216px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SfEWaHiwNSI/AAAAAAAAAII/uAEJtX-2REY/s320/leebrd+mounted.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5328064472113231138" border="0" /></a>Here's a pic of the leeboard mounted to the hull in the up position. I added that little square of .25" thick plywood at the bolt hole just for the heck of it. I leaned the boat up on it's side so I could move the leeboard into the down or submerged position and it felt pretty solid there resting on the wale, chine, and spacer. Yes the .5" plywood does seem somewhat floppy for a leeboard but I'll go with it and can replace it later with a stiffer solid piece of wood if needed. The leeboard still needs it's leading and trailing edges shaped and I'll post a pic when that's done.Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536422896985952335.post-35798688007617959382009-04-16T07:53:00.000-07:002009-04-16T10:47:32.209-07:00FairingSo I had to take a step backwards before going forward again. The chines, wales, and bottom had been dry/trial fitted. So I dissembled them, (step backwards) and reassembled with epoxy, (step forward).<br /><br />But first, I had to fair the invisible fiberglass butt joints. Here's a tip for you future builders. When setting up the fiberglass butt joints, be sure you get the 4 ml thick plastic that goes on the outside of the joint during the layup process. If you use thinner plastic as I did, you'll end up with unwanted texture in you butt joint from the wrinkles in the thin plastic. Even though my joint was compressed during the layup, there were still wrinkles in the thin plastic, argh. The 4ml is thick enough so that it will lay smooth and flat w/o wrinkles and give the glass joint a nice smooth finish.<br /><br />So I had unwanted texture and thus some extra fairing to do. I mixed up some fairing compound from epoxy and thickening solids that I purchased with the epoxy. The solids were inexpensive, about 5 bucks for a quart I think. I spread the fairing compound on and around the glass joints, let it dry, spread on more fairing compound and sanded it down until I got the joints looking pretty flat. Ha, easier said than done. Seems to me this fairing thing takes some practice. I guess I did ok for the first time. I can always go back and fair further. Most importantly, the fairing gives a smoother surface for a better seal at the chines and sides, and at the chines and bottom. Yeaaaah, lets keep the water out.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SedNMrSKKHI/AAAAAAAAAHI/prDF8tNAlkk/s1600-h/inside+side+panel+fair.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 254px; height: 191px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SedNMrSKKHI/AAAAAAAAAHI/prDF8tNAlkk/s320/inside+side+panel+fair.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5325309964561557618" border="0" /></a>The fairing compound is the purple colored stuff you see. It was fun to work with. Kind of like playing with putty in a way. If the fiberglass joint was smooth, this is all I'd have to do, fair in the edges as you see in this pic.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SedQtXEmtII/AAAAAAAAAHg/NyiYSqCxHxw/s1600-h/side+panel+fair.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 252px; height: 192px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SedQtXEmtII/AAAAAAAAAHg/NyiYSqCxHxw/s320/side+panel+fair.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5325313824606565506" border="0" /></a>Here the entire joint is getting fully covered and the unwanted texture is magically disappearing.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SedZwCLdkGI/AAAAAAAAAHw/UQAkxPGEIvk/s1600-h/Outside+joint+about+fair.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 248px; height: 176px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SedZwCLdkGI/AAAAAAAAAHw/UQAkxPGEIvk/s320/Outside+joint+about+fair.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5325323766142439522" border="0" /></a>This pic is further along in the fairing process. It's actually pretty smooth here and more fair than it perhaps looks in the pic.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SedNMPzzzoI/AAAAAAAAAHA/hNq9SZ9laZI/s1600-h/bottom+clamped+on+with+epoxy.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 244px; height: 185px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SedNMPzzzoI/AAAAAAAAAHA/hNq9SZ9laZI/s320/bottom+clamped+on+with+epoxy.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5325309957186506370" border="0" /></a>This pic shows the bottom attached with epoxy, screws, and clamps. Funny, those PVC clamps have a pretty stiff grip. You can't beat the price. :)<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SedeIvRvDGI/AAAAAAAAAH4/pltraeXh8yQ/s1600-h/Bottom+joint+about+fair.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 258px; height: 194px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SedeIvRvDGI/AAAAAAAAAH4/pltraeXh8yQ/s320/Bottom+joint+about+fair.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5325328588611718242" border="0" /></a>This is a shot of the joint on the hull bottom looking pretty fair now.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SedOPXhYDNI/AAAAAAAAAHY/2B5HaurTH38/s1600-h/side+panel+screw+fair.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 263px; height: 198px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SedOPXhYDNI/AAAAAAAAAHY/2B5HaurTH38/s320/side+panel+screw+fair.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5325311110307908818" border="0" /></a>Yup, have to fair all the screw holes.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SedNL5OIkBI/AAAAAAAAAGw/Bi6C7YR15pE/s1600-h/fair+on+chine.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 258px; height: 193px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SedNL5OIkBI/AAAAAAAAAGw/Bi6C7YR15pE/s320/fair+on+chine.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5325309951122903058" border="0" /></a>I had some saw marks and unevenness on the side where chine and bottom meet. Figured I might as well fair it some long as I'm at it. Oops, pic is closer than I had intended.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SedNMO2V-0I/AAAAAAAAAG4/gySRxfNSZj4/s1600-h/Bead+on+gunwale.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 258px; height: 194px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SedNMO2V-0I/AAAAAAAAAG4/gySRxfNSZj4/s320/Bead+on+gunwale.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5325309956928699202" border="0" /></a>While the boat was upside down I thought this would be a good time to lay a bead along the bottom of the gunwale and the side of the boat. Just another bit of fairing. This part was easy. I smoothed the bead with a popsicle stick. It blends in so well you have to know it's there to see it.<br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SedfJpeyVKI/AAAAAAAAAIA/wACfqJWz9Gk/s1600-h/Hull+outside+assemble+with+epoxy,+faired+for+now.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 264px; height: 199px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SedfJpeyVKI/AAAAAAAAAIA/wACfqJWz9Gk/s320/Hull+outside+assemble+with+epoxy,+faired+for+now.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5325329703747343522" border="0" /></a>In this pic everything has been assembled with epoxy and basically faired. Making progress and moving forward. :)<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SedfJpeyVKI/AAAAAAAAAIA/wACfqJWz9Gk/s1600-h/Hull+outside+assemble+with+epoxy,+faired+for+now.JPG"><br /></a>Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536422896985952335.post-30631446497691686432009-03-13T18:38:00.000-07:002009-03-13T18:50:31.520-07:00Shoe and runners are attached to the bottom<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SbsLahs7fVI/AAAAAAAAAGQ/nGKZZGvn1d0/s1600-h/runners+bow.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 236px; height: 178px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SbsLahs7fVI/AAAAAAAAAGQ/nGKZZGvn1d0/s320/runners+bow.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5312852735764954450" border="0" /></a>Today I finished attaching the shoe and runners to the bottom of the hull. The bottom is quarter inch plywood per the plans and I was glad to see that the shoe and runners do add a lot of support and stiffness to the bottom panel. I'd definitely recommend going this route.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SbsLbNGd6zI/AAAAAAAAAGY/avw8X6Nx8yU/s1600-h/runners+transom.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 235px; height: 175px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SbsLbNGd6zI/AAAAAAAAAGY/avw8X6Nx8yU/s320/runners+transom.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5312852747414793010" border="0" /></a>The wood for the runners came from my first attempt at cutting chine logs. They are not square. They have the 15 degree angle the chine logs require. I figured it doesn't matter if one side of the runner is angled. I placed them so both the angled sides are pointing towards the shoe.Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536422896985952335.post-46164764421839235002009-03-05T19:41:00.000-08:002009-03-13T18:56:19.583-07:00The bottom is on<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SbCb98eKtrI/AAAAAAAAAFY/QhXd9BE1FEc/s1600-h/starting+to+add+bottom.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 269px; height: 202px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SbCb98eKtrI/AAAAAAAAAFY/QhXd9BE1FEc/s320/starting+to+add+bottom.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5309915449176798898" border="0" /></a>Here I've got the boat sitting on the two plywood sheets that will become the bottom of the hull. Just scoping it out for now. The two sheets will be joined by a fiberglass butt joint the same way the side panels were.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SbCb9A5JfpI/AAAAAAAAAFI/Dq6sEyO-KJ8/s1600-h/setting+up+the+butt+joint+for+the+bottom.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 266px; height: 199px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SbCb9A5JfpI/AAAAAAAAAFI/Dq6sEyO-KJ8/s320/setting+up+the+butt+joint+for+the+bottom.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5309915433183837842" border="0" /></a>Here the two bottom sheets are being joined together. The epoxy needs 24 hours to fully cure. Since the plywood has curled up as most plywood will do, I've covered the joint with a couple boards and lots of weight to flatten things out. Yes, those are sand bags. The joint did come out fine.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SbCijMnQ4jI/AAAAAAAAAGA/q4dm8dVXC2s/s1600-h/sighting+down+the+center+line.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SbCijMnQ4jI/AAAAAAAAAGA/q4dm8dVXC2s/s320/sighting+down+the+center+line.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5309922686234845746" border="0" /></a>Here I've drawn a line down the bottom to check the frame alignment. Things look good except the front frame and bow are off about a half inch.<br /><br />The plans say to push the boat into shape or alignment with the center line. I can do that but the boat does not hold the alignment. It springs back.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SbCiiCtsCLI/AAAAAAAAAF4/vvKZfvYVoS0/s1600-h/pushing+the+hull+into+shape.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 271px; height: 203px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SbCiiCtsCLI/AAAAAAAAAF4/vvKZfvYVoS0/s320/pushing+the+hull+into+shape.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5309922666397567154" border="0" /></a>So I decided to wedge the boat so it will stay in shape while I trace it's outline onto the bottom sheets. If you look on the right you'll see a darker piece of plywood that is actually pushing on the side of the front frame and positioning it on center.On the left I've got another brace on the center frame which helps hold the boat in place. It's hard to see the brace but it's there in the dark shadow.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SbCcOZuf18I/AAAAAAAAAFg/icc3yGQ-T4g/s1600-h/upside+down+bottom.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 201px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SbCcOZuf18I/AAAAAAAAAFg/icc3yGQ-T4g/s320/upside+down+bottom.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5309915731907827650" border="0" /></a>Here I have moved the boat to a dry covered location as I had some rain. I decided I wasn't comfortable tracing the hull outline and cutting it and then attaching it to the chines as the plans say. Seemed like there could be room for a mistake and I didn't know if the bottom once attached would hold the front frame in alignment.<br /><br />So I turned the boat upside down, wedged it into shape, and attached the bottom without cutting it. I figured if anything went wrong, I'd still have my full uncut bottom and could probably recover from whatever problem came up. Turned out that attaching the bottom did hold the frame in alignment and it doesn't seem very torqued or like there will be any problem.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SbCcZgLKYKI/AAAAAAAAAFo/P3Hv-tBXzH4/s1600-h/bottom+is+on.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 273px; height: 205px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SbCcZgLKYKI/AAAAAAAAAFo/P3Hv-tBXzH4/s320/bottom+is+on.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5309915922617229474" border="0" /></a>Yes, the boat now boat now has a bottom! Here you see the bottom sheet attached and cut to the hull's shape. This the dry fit so I left the screws sitting high and will sink and fair them later. I cut the bottom by hand with a pull saw. Took me a while to get the hang of the pull saw. In a few spots I had trouble keeping the saw blade snug up against the chine so there is a little trimming to do. But I'm happy with it. It's on and it's all good.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SbsOC6udYoI/AAAAAAAAAGo/GIAg-tGy2MM/s1600-h/completed+hull+bow.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 265px; height: 199px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SbsOC6udYoI/AAAAAAAAAGo/GIAg-tGy2MM/s320/completed+hull+bow.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5312855628700279426" border="0" /></a>Here's a pic of the boat turned right side up. Looking good.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SbCb861agWI/AAAAAAAAAFA/q3CfwiAxQ8w/s1600-h/pushing+the+hull+into+shape.JPG"><br /></a>Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536422896985952335.post-90138810705932465412009-03-05T19:32:00.001-08:002009-03-05T21:06:16.547-08:00Chines done<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SbCZeN2cFhI/AAAAAAAAAE4/kNyYsGPmIxI/s1600-h/chines+on,+good+align+with+frame.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 279px; height: 210px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SbCZeN2cFhI/AAAAAAAAAE4/kNyYsGPmIxI/s320/chines+on,+good+align+with+frame.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5309912705062934034" border="0" /></a>Here the chines are installed. Pretty easy like the gunwales were. I did have be more careful with my aim with the drill because the chines are much narrower.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SbCZdsGks8I/AAAAAAAAAEw/C7HShepLs8M/s1600-h/chines+on+good+align+with+frame.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 278px; height: 252px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SbCZdsGks8I/AAAAAAAAAEw/C7HShepLs8M/s320/chines+on+good+align+with+frame.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5309912696003802050" border="0" /></a>A shot of me using a board across the frame and the chines to make sure they line up even.Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536422896985952335.post-84639012788549159202009-02-25T19:53:00.001-08:002009-02-25T20:00:22.242-08:00Gunwales dry fit<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SaYTN3zLKyI/AAAAAAAAAEg/1b_qgrJmWu4/s1600-h/Gunwale+dry+fit.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 282px; height: 212px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SaYTN3zLKyI/AAAAAAAAAEg/1b_qgrJmWu4/s320/Gunwale+dry+fit.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5306950339940526882" border="0" /></a><br />Here's a pic of the gunwale. This is the dry fit. This was easy. Lined it up, clamped it on, and put in the screws. Yes, I attached one to each side of the boat, smirk. Yeehaw.Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536422896985952335.post-50180945229807599272009-02-25T19:14:00.000-08:002009-03-13T18:37:46.307-07:00Transom detail and trouble<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SaYO2H2QNXI/AAAAAAAAAEY/iUT-F7-rNRs/s1600-h/transom+angle.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 257px; height: 193px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SaYO2H2QNXI/AAAAAAAAAEY/iUT-F7-rNRs/s320/transom+angle.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5306945533885035890" border="0" /></a>This pic is of the transom meeting the side panel. The right of the pic is the transom. The left of the pic is the side panel. The boat is upside down right now so what looks like the top of the transom is actually the bottom of the transom with a 20.5 degree bevel.<br /><br />But, something isn't correct. If I angle the transom back so it lines up with the side panel's vertical angle, then the 20.5 degree bevel on the bottom is way off. If I line up the bottom transom bevel to the side panel, then the transom doesn't match the side panel's vertical angle. Kinda of hard to explain, I hope the pics helps make it clear.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SaYOWjpYNvI/AAAAAAAAAEQ/a02su7P0AZg/s1600-h/transom+bevel+aligned+with+side+panel.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 242px; height: 181px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SaYOWjpYNvI/AAAAAAAAAEQ/a02su7P0AZg/s320/transom+bevel+aligned+with+side+panel.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5306944991591413490" border="0" /></a>So I can either angle the transom back and redo the transom bottom bevel or just trim off the side panel. I'm going with trim off the side panel. When I look at the Bolger original and Featherwind drawings, I see the transom is raked slightly back 5 to 8 degrees. When I line up my transom bottom bevel that's what I get - a raked back angle of about 5 degrees. So I figure I'm ok with trimming the side panel.<br /><br />I read in another blog that someone else had a problem with the transom. Could just be the place where mistakes happen. Could be a mistake on the plans? My advice would be to not cut the side panel transom angle until you have the side panels on the frames. Just skip that cut for the time being. But do mark it well and dark. That way you'll have more freedom as to where you place your transom and if there is a mistake in the plans you've got it covered. I think my situation may have cost me a few inches off the length of the boat. Well darn it. Stuff happens I guess. But I'm super happy it's an easy fix. Like I said I'll just trim the panels.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SbsIUzFllhI/AAAAAAAAAGI/Dk6i076UqH8/s1600-h/completed+hull+stern.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 241px; height: 183px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SbsIUzFllhI/AAAAAAAAAGI/Dk6i076UqH8/s320/completed+hull+stern.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5312849338817680914" border="0" /></a>Here's a pic of the transom all trimmed and happy after I got a little farther along in the build. I used the flush cut pull saw to trim the side panels . Gotta say that saw is cool. Cut off the excess side panels perfectly flush. Really nice.Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536422896985952335.post-67254271352533867932009-02-21T19:26:00.000-08:002009-02-21T20:09:34.755-08:00Dry fit frames, transom, and stem to sides<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SaDJOdE0X5I/AAAAAAAAADo/v9PzivbmdJM/s1600-h/one+frame+installed.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 262px; height: 196px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SaDJOdE0X5I/AAAAAAAAADo/v9PzivbmdJM/s320/one+frame+installed.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5305461611202633618" border="0" /></a>Here's the pics of the assembly of frames, stem, and transom being attached to the side panels. First frame goes about in the middle.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SaDJOpGvIfI/AAAAAAAAADw/nJJSfUt4VqU/s1600-h/two+frames+installed.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 256px; height: 192px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SaDJOpGvIfI/AAAAAAAAADw/nJJSfUt4VqU/s320/two+frames+installed.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5305461614431904242" border="0" /></a><br />Next frame attaches between the first frame and the the stern.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SaDJOkP345I/AAAAAAAAAD4/Oq9tWg5ivGM/s1600-h/three+frames+installed.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 259px; height: 194px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SaDJOkP345I/AAAAAAAAAD4/Oq9tWg5ivGM/s320/three+frames+installed.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5305461613128049554" border="0" /></a><br />The next frame attaches between the first frame and the bow.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SaDJO4bV-6I/AAAAAAAAAEA/V5QsrX92Aec/s1600-h/stem+and+transom+installed.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 266px; height: 200px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SaDJO4bV-6I/AAAAAAAAAEA/V5QsrX92Aec/s320/stem+and+transom+installed.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5305461618544868258" border="0" /></a><br />Next I've attached the stem in the bow, and the transom in the stern. Now the boat is right side up and you can tell it's a boat. A happy moment for sure.<br />This is all a dry fit. I like the dry fit idea. Nice to be able to work out any little problems and line things up without glue or epoxy messes.Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536422896985952335.post-56590595480584800382009-02-20T18:20:00.000-08:002009-02-21T19:25:31.379-08:00Frames & Transom Beveled & Glued<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SZ9sk7mxbJI/AAAAAAAAADY/3aQEtkpBJ6E/s1600-h/Frames+and+transom+done.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 270px; height: 202px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SZ9sk7mxbJI/AAAAAAAAADY/3aQEtkpBJ6E/s320/Frames+and+transom+done.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5305078267797138578" border="0" /></a>Here's a pic of my completed frames and transom. Letting them set till the epoxy has cured. The limber holes, and bevels on the sides and bottom, have been cut. I used epoxy thickened with talc for glue. Weird thing about my frames or maybe it's the plans... the width of the bottom of the frame is exact to the plans... the length of the sides of the frame is exact to the plans... the angles are exactly 15 degrees as measured with my protractor... but the width at the top of the frames differs from the plans by about 1 inch. I noticed this inaccuracy when I was dry assembling the frames and decided to ignore it. I think my frames are good.<br /><br />I built the taller version of transom just to be safe. Not sure if I should cut the top of it straight or curved like a dory. we'll see before too long. I forgot that the transom framing is smaller than the other frames so my transom frame is also from 1x3's. No biggy, just a little extra wood there.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SaDEmcjQjpI/AAAAAAAAADg/2EG_8SZsOrI/s1600-h/protactor.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 189px; height: 252px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SaDEmcjQjpI/AAAAAAAAADg/2EG_8SZsOrI/s320/protactor.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5305456525820595858" border="0" /></a>I cut the bevels on a table saw. I used a protractor to get the table saw blade set at the correct angle cause the angle set on the saw is a degree or so off. I bought the protractor for 5 bucks at a tool store near my house. Was worth it and has come in handy. You can run it down the length of your bevel to check it. Can use it to check/measure angles on the plans. Can check your table saw angle like I did.Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536422896985952335.post-79884534060862347102009-02-17T06:09:00.000-08:002009-02-17T06:29:34.403-08:00Stem cut from a 2X4<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SZrJvCGE86I/AAAAAAAAADQ/fpgZcPPkGOY/s1600-h/stem+cut+out.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 266px; height: 199px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SZrJvCGE86I/AAAAAAAAADQ/fpgZcPPkGOY/s320/stem+cut+out.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5303773321035576226" border="0" /></a><br />Here is the stem cut from a 2X4. I'll probably trim down the X4 part of the board to a X2. The stem length is 28" which will give me some extra stem above the gunwales to attach a line to or to decorate. I think it would be fun to decorate the stem with a figurehead. We'll see, something interesting may turn up.<br />I set the saw for 26 degrees and made 2 cuts to give me the needed 52 degrees. The plans said it would also be fine to make one 52 degree cut and have one side of the stem longer than the other. True but I had to have it look symmetrical, ha.Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536422896985952335.post-33367724130693796762009-02-17T05:38:00.000-08:002009-02-17T06:07:28.120-08:00Chines cut with a table saw<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SZrEbuDqNMI/AAAAAAAAADI/WQhwWReghh0/s1600-h/chines+on+table+saw.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 273px; height: 205px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SZrEbuDqNMI/AAAAAAAAADI/WQhwWReghh0/s320/chines+on+table+saw.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5303767491681072322" border="0" /></a><br />Here's a pic of my chine ends, the bevel came out well. The cut is even down the entire length. Much better than the first try. I decided to cut the chines on a table saw even though I had read in in a wood working forum that ripping a 16' piece of wood on a table saw is not a good practice. I put the table saw on the driveway and set up boxes and boards that would support the the 16' feet of floppy lumber while it fed into and came out of the table saw. I rehearsed the feed through the turned off saw a few times and adjusted the support track to give a nice smooth entrance and exit to the saw. The support system is what really made it work and allowed me to make the cut easily. I wish I took a picture of that, looked kinda funny 32' feet of crap out in the driveway with a table saw in the middle.Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536422896985952335.post-87622370303203504552009-02-12T20:13:00.001-08:002009-02-12T20:42:26.030-08:00Ripping Guide<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SZT3mNo1dpI/AAAAAAAAADA/-g54TU5VvDo/s1600-h/ripping+attachment+for+circular+saw.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 280px; height: 210px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SZT3mNo1dpI/AAAAAAAAADA/-g54TU5VvDo/s320/ripping+attachment+for+circular+saw.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5302134897189942930" border="0" /></a><br />Here is my version of the ripping guide that the plans suggest making and using. I have already ripped the gunwales using a 20"X8' width of plywood clamped to the 2X8 as a fence. That worked ok. The gunwales look to be usable and I expect that I can smooth out the rough spots with sandpaper and all will be well.<br /><br />I wanted a better, smoother, more accurate cut for the chines so I made the ripping attachment. I didn't want to take the time to make it but after seeing the cuts I had so far, I decided I wanted to see if I could do better with the guide. Turns out it was worth making it. I did get a much better cut. Wish I had just done that right off the bat.<br /><br />Now to take that ripped piece and turn it into two chines by ripping it again with a 15 degree bevel. I liked using the guide so well, I think I'll modify it for cutting the beveled chines.Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536422896985952335.post-74511191381450310442009-02-12T19:59:00.000-08:002009-02-12T20:11:53.012-08:00Cut hull side panels<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SZTx_F4LdLI/AAAAAAAAAC4/An_0bvwsdlw/s1600-h/Hull+side+panels+cut.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SZTx_F4LdLI/AAAAAAAAAC4/An_0bvwsdlw/s320/Hull+side+panels+cut.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5302128727533778098" border="0" /></a><br />Here I have the hull side panels cut out. I cut these as the plans suggested - free hand with a circular saw and both at the same time clamped on top of each other. I stacked the panels smooth side to smooth side which results in both the C sides ending up on the on the inside of the hull and both the B sides on the outside. Glad I remembered to mark the frame locations before cutting. Much easier to mark those before cutting the panels out.Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536422896985952335.post-27904637788433865932009-02-09T17:37:00.000-08:002009-02-09T21:20:50.727-08:00Getting Started<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SZDxIBHxjNI/AAAAAAAAABo/WmiTmIxeKrg/s1600-h/start+with+wood.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 249px; height: 187px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SZDxIBHxjNI/AAAAAAAAABo/WmiTmIxeKrg/s320/start+with+wood.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301001881457364178" border="0" /></a> This is my boat, or will be, with luck. Got the lumber home from my local chain builder supply store. I dug through a whole stack of quarter inch 4X8 sheets of BC plywood but it was worth it. Found some really nice ones. And I dug through the pile of 1/2 sheets of plywood as well. And the pile of 2X8X16's and 1X3X8's. That was a whole lotta digging that took a couple of hours. But I did get some nice boards.<br /><br />While at the store for wood I also picked up everything else that I needed. Screws, glue, rubber gloves, sandpaper, etc. Ordered epoxy and fiberglass tape online.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SZDyJ_tIocI/AAAAAAAAABw/8E6R15LfnUM/s1600-h/start+with+wood+2.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 201px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SZDyJ_tIocI/AAAAAAAAABw/8E6R15LfnUM/s320/start+with+wood+2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301003014948561346" border="0" /></a>Here I've cut a 20"X8' piece of plywood for a hull side panel and am getting ready to use it for a fence while I rip the gunwales from the 2X8x16.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SZEL7Pi73lI/AAAAAAAAACw/HE4waWXIrbs/s1600-h/ripped+chines+and+gunwales.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 241px; height: 183px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SZEL7Pi73lI/AAAAAAAAACw/HE4waWXIrbs/s320/ripped+chines+and+gunwales.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301031348805033554" border="0" /></a>Here the gunwales and chines are ripped. Still have plenty of board left for the other pieces. I decided to use a 16' length rather than the longer length suggested in plans. Looks like it'll work out ok.<br /><br />The plans show a ripping guide you can put together and attach to your circular saw to get smoother more accurate rips. If I was doing this over again, I might give that a try. Even with a fence clamped on the 2X8 my rips came out a little rough. I think I might end up redoing the chines cause the sloppiness of the bevel is nagging me.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SZD0iPnH-wI/AAAAAAAAACA/UUogd0kXx20/s1600-h/frame+pieces.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 273px; height: 205px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SZD0iPnH-wI/AAAAAAAAACA/UUogd0kXx20/s320/frame+pieces.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301005630558436098" border="0" /></a>Here you see some frame pieces cut from 1X3's. So far I'm just cutting up boards into the pieces needed to start building the hull.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SZD0iOo9Q6I/AAAAAAAAACI/Rad6EBRW9ew/s1600-h/Side+panel+but+joints+curing.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 229px; height: 302px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SZD0iOo9Q6I/AAAAAAAAACI/Rad6EBRW9ew/s320/Side+panel+but+joints+curing.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301005630297686946" border="0" /></a>Here the 8' X 20" plywood hull sides are being joined together with epoxy and fiberglass to yield two 16' X 20" plywood sheets from which the hull sides will be cut. The joint is setting up under the weight of the tool bucket and assorted stuff that was handy. Had epoxy on my rubber gloved hands so I didn't get any pics of the process of putting this together.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SZEH595NjdI/AAAAAAAAACo/3MjirLXP2aw/s1600-h/side+panel+joint+completed.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 242px; height: 181px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SZEH595NjdI/AAAAAAAAACo/3MjirLXP2aw/s320/side+panel+joint+completed.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301026928840248786" border="0" /></a>Here is one of the cured hull sides that was set up in the above pic. This was my first time working with epoxy and fiberglass. It's neat stuff, pretty cool.<br /><br />The plans give a good explanation of the process of attaching the sheets together. I watched a couple of youtube videos of people wetting out glass which also helped me feel like I could do it. I think the joints came out pretty good.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SZD5fmzHmiI/AAAAAAAAACg/1CZYeAzq9PQ/s1600-h/clamping+a+gunrail+lofting.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 272px; height: 205px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_zbSI886W0pM/SZD5fmzHmiI/AAAAAAAAACg/1CZYeAzq9PQ/s320/clamping+a+gunrail+lofting.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301011082801289762" border="0" /></a>Here I'm marking out the shape of the hull on the hull side panel and am clamping a piece of wood on the marks so I can draw a nice line from end to end.Ginzoramahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389108426076512143noreply@blogger.com2